Freemium - the new profanity

So I'm reading this review on an upcoming iPhone game, and the author is complaining about how the developers are using the "freemium" model (free to play, pay for premium features) - look, you might not like it, but leave the complaining out, and review the game. If the features you have to pay for aren't worth it, or the game is crippled because of it, I'd certainly like to know. Saying it's bad merely because you have to pay for something in an otherwise free game is a disservice to the developer, and an unfair knock on the game.
These people deserve to paid too, they just found a different way to do it.